How to Install Foam Brick Wall Panels: A Step-by-Step Guide

Foam brick wall panels are the easiest brick finish you can install yourself, but "easy" still rewards a little planning. This is the full process we walk customers through: measuring and ordering, preparing the wall, laying out the first row, cutting around outlets and corners, and finishing the joints so the wall reads as brick rather than as tiles. Budget an afternoon for a typical accent wall of 40 to 50 sq. ft.

What you need

Step 1: measure and order with a margin

Multiply the wall width by its height in feet to get the area, then divide by 5.38 to get the panel count. Round up, then add about 10% for offcuts around sockets, switches and edges. A 10 ft × 8 ft wall is 80 sq. ft., or 15 panels, so order two 9-packs and keep the spares. Order all panels from the same batch when you can, so the tones match across the wall.

Step 2: prepare the wall

The adhesive bonds to the surface, so the surface has to be sound. The wall should be:

• Clean. Wipe off dust and grease. Kitchen walls especially.
• Dry. If you are covering a basement or a wall that has had damp, fix the cause first. Our article on covering damp basement walls covers this in detail.
• Flat and firm. Fill holes, sand ridges, and make sure old wallpaper or flaking paint is removed. Adhesive stuck to loose paint will come away with the paint.

Remove outlet and switch cover plates. Turn the circuit off at the breaker while you work around them.

Step 3: plan the layout before any glue

Dry-fit the first row on the floor against the wall to see how the panels land. Two decisions:

• Where to start. Start from the most visible corner or the center of the wall, so any cut panels end up in the least noticeable place, usually a corner behind a door or at floor level behind furniture.
• Stagger the rows. Offset each row by roughly half a panel, like real bricklaying. A stacked grid of joints is the single biggest giveaway of a paneled wall.

Draw a level line for the top of the first row. Floors are rarely level, so do not trust the skirting board.

Step 4: apply adhesive and set the first panel

Run beads of adhesive around the perimeter of the back of the panel, about an inch in from the edge, plus a zigzag through the middle. Press the panel onto the wall along your level line and hold firm pressure for a few seconds. High-tack adhesive grabs immediately, so you will not need props, but you can still slide the panel slightly for the first minute to align it. Check level, then move on.

Step 5: work across and up

Butt each new panel against the previous one so the interlocking edges mesh. Work the whole first row, then start the second row with a half panel to create the stagger. Keep a damp cloth handy and wipe any adhesive that squeezes onto the face before it skins over.

Step 6: cutting panels

EPS cuts cleanly with a sharp utility knife. Score along a straight edge, then make two or three more passes until you are through. Change blades often; a dull blade tears the texture.

• Straight cuts at the end of a row: measure the gap, mark the back of the panel, cut, and fit with the factory edge facing the previous panel.
• Outlets and switches. Measure from the last full panel to the box edges, transfer to the panel, and cut the opening slightly smaller than the box so the cover plate hides the edge.
• Around windows and doors. Cut panels to butt against the trim. A bead of matching caulk closes any hairline gap.

Step 7: inside and outside corners

Inside corners are simple: run one wall's panels into the corner and butt the adjoining wall's panels against them. Outside corners look best with a mitre: cut the meeting edges at 45 degrees so the brick texture wraps the corner. If a mitre is beyond your patience, butt-join and fill the exposed edge with color-matched caulk, then dab a little paint over it.

Step 8: finishing

• Let the adhesive cure fully before hanging anything on the wall. Check the adhesive label for the cure time.
• Reinstall cover plates. If a plate now sits proud, use longer screws or a box extender.
• If you want a different color, use water-based acrylic or latex paint applied with a roller and a brush for the grout lines. Never use solvent-based or aerosol spray paints on polystyrene.

Common mistakes to avoid

• Skipping the level line and following the floor.
• Stacking joints in a grid instead of staggering.
• Using a general-purpose or solvent adhesive that softens the foam.
• Installing right beside a stove, fireplace opening or radiator without the appliance's clearance.
• Ordering the exact count with no spares, then discovering the outlet cut ruined a panel.

Frequently asked questions

How much adhesive do I need?

One tube is comfortable for a pack of two. For a full 9-pack wall, plan on two tubes, and four for large or double walls.

Can I install foam brick panels over tile or paneling?

Yes, if the surface is clean, firm and flat. Wipe glossy tile with a degreaser first so the adhesive can bite.

Can I take the panels down later?

Panels can be removed, but the adhesive will pull some paint or paper with it, so expect to fill and repaint. It is still far less work than removing tile or masonry.

Pick your brick from the 3D faux brick wall panel collection, from classic red-brown Babylon to greys and whitewashed tones, and add the matching adhesive to the same order.